Day 236 (Wed 28 Feb) - Mount Kinabalu (Sabah, Borneo)

Up early and went to the Park HQ for breakfast.

Flaming expensive although we did have the luxury of eating it with Mount Kinabalu as a backdrop. Looked quite impressive.

At about 8.30am we headed off for a walk through the reserve as we had no intention of climbing the mountain.

Walked through beautiful forests stopping off at a couple of lookouts as we went. Quite cool under the trees although when we did hit a patch of sunlight it soon warmed us up.

At about 12ish we stopped off for a cup of tea and some food at a cafe. From there we headed off round the botanical gardens where we saw some amazing orchids one of which the Rothschild (apparently the most expensive) is so named after the banking family that donate money to protect it.

Walked on again on a new path that followed a little stream passing rockpools as we went. Jo was slightly ahead of Sarb and he shouted at her to stop moving as he'd seen something slither near her. We carefully approached the spot and saw a slim brown snake clinging to the side of some rocks. Quite a pretty creature although we refrained from giving it a pat on the head.

At about 5pm we headed back to the cafe that we had lunch at and sitting on the patio, surrounded by forests and the sunlight warming us, decided we'd have a spot of wine.

Sat drinking red marvelling at the beautiful clouds scudding overhead.

After some hours we wandered off, taking a piccy of the cloud covered mountain, via the Bayu cafe for a little drink before toddling off to our lodgings.

Day 235 (Tue 27 Feb) - Mount Kinabalu (Sabah, Borneo)

Up early to head into Sandankan, the nearby town, to get some money and our bus.

We had arranged for a taxi to pick us up from the lodge and take us into town and he duly pitched up at 7.30am

Got some money and were dropped off at the small bus station where we bought our tickets and boarded the bus.

Soon we were off and headed into the hills. We were soon at the gates of the Kinabalu National Park where we got off at about 1pm.

We asked at the cafe opposite the gates where they Bayu Lodge was. They pointed up the road. We walked up about a 1km without any luck and decided to turn back. We passed a place called theBayu Homestay and thought that they might be able to help.
We asked them where the Bayu Lodge was and they said it was here. Unfortunately, our time in India had made us a bit suspicious and we thought this guy was just saying that so that we would stay there. We asked him if anyone from KK had called to say that we were coming and he replied that they had. Finally after a little more interrogation he went and got a book and read from it Sarbs full name; decided this must be the place then.

Quite expensive and our room was basic to say the least. Jo was not happy with the state of the shared toilet either and got the bloke to clean it up.

Dumped our bags and then walked to the Bayu cafe (opposite the park entrance) where we had an excellent feed of beef rendang. We got some info from the park HQ and bumped into our Polish friends. They had just arrived that day and had gone for a long walk. They were looking pretty sprightly; just as well as they were tackling Mount Kinabalu t'row.

Walked back to our lodge we read and lazed for a while until dinnertime. There is not a great deal in this area so we found ourselves back at the Bayu cafe for dinner.

During our meal a mist or cloud had settled so when we returned it felt very eerie walking in the dark with our torches casting a pitiful light. To make matters worse we had to pass a small strech of shops that housed dogs that wandered about the road. Seeing their eyes unexpectedly reflecting our torchlight was interesting.

Day 234 (Mon 26 Feb) - Sepilok (Sabah, Borneo)

Up early to have breakfast and go to the sanctuary.

As we neared the sanctuary we were a trifle dismayed to see loads of coaches pass us. Looks like it will be a very busy morning indeed.

Got our tickets and walked along the very slippery wooden walkway to the viewing platform.

Whilst we waited we watched the macaques in the tree tops. There was a fairly sizeable crowd on the platform but as we'd got there nice and early we were well positioned by the railings at the front of the platform.

Soon the thick rope that connected two massive trees began to sway and soon a few juvenile orangs appeared ( [1], [2], [3] ). They seemed to be quite curious at us as they hang from the ropes, looking a bit like a hairy sack hung up to dry; they clung to the rope with all four limbs. The macaques obviously knew that feeding time was near as they hopped down from the trees and neared the feeding platform; one brazenly walked along the handrails that we were standing by. We moved a couple of feet back to let the big macaque go past as they have a nasty habit of snatching anything that looks like they may be able to eat. Neither of us wanted to be scratched or bitten by him!

After a while the warden put out some bananas for them that they demolished ( [1], [2] ). As they ate the macaques would make lightning raids on any banana that had been left unattended for more than a second. The orangs didn't seem to mind.

After feeding the orangs slowly moved back into the surrounding forest.

About 11ish we headed off to the cafe for a bite to eat and then watched a short video about the sanctuary. Walked round the informative information centre then headed back early to the viewing platform for the afternoon feeding session.

There were only a handful of tourists waiting quitely for the orangs to appear. Unfortunately the tranquility of standing listening to the sounds of the forest was lost when a Malay couple and an elder woman appeared together with a gaggle of older English tourists. We have never quite worked out why people standing no more than two feet from each other have to literally shout to each other to make themselves heard. Sarb thought that this was a particularly English abroad phenomenan but the Malays were giving them a run for their money. Idiots!

Soon the orangs started to appear. We knew this as the decibel level went up as our friends decided to shout to each other that an orang was appearing. Said friend clearly needed to demonstrate that he understood this message by shouting back to shouter number 1 that yes indeed he could see an orang. Sarb felt that it would be more interesting sitting on the side of the orangs and watching these pillocks.

Anyway the orangs soon started to appear including a huge male ( [1], [2] ). We knew they were big but were quite taken aback as to how big! Awesome.

After feeding we walked back along the wooden walkway only to stop as we spotted the huge male had decided to use the walkway as well. Luckily he was going in the same direction as us and was about 30 yards away. Lucky as were not sure as to the etiquette to employ when passing a whacking great ape on a shared walkway. Do you say 'morning.', 'dry again isn't it' or just keep your eyes glued to the floor and pretend that the rusty orange 200 pound ape walking past you isn't there (a bit like walking into a nightclub in Britain)?

The male soon tired of using the walkway and muscled over the handrails and into the surrounding forest.

We were both smiling and were quite awestruck at the size and gentle nature of these great apes. Beautiful creatures.

Day 233 (Sun 25 Feb) - Sepilok (Sabah, Borneo)

Up again early at 5.45am.

Had another boat trip
where we sort mostly langur monkeys and a hornbill waking up in the trees.

Got back to camp, had brekky and finished packing.

Said goodbye to the Poles and the camp staff and boarded the boat that would take us to the other side of the river and the bus.

Soon we were bouncing along the rough roads back to Medan Selera. For some reason Jibriel had organised a taxi for us that would take us to Sepilok, some 40km away. We boarded happily as couldn't be bothered waiting for a bus. Turns out the taxi driver was his friend!

Checked into the Sepilok B+B. Very comfortable room and clean. Not many people about so Sarb went and asked the cleaner the quickest way to the Sepilok orang sanctuary. She replied it was easy and that we should take a left out of the B+B and go straight on. Couldn't miss it. Very hot as we set off.

We did as we were told and were soon bowling along a tarmac road that was lined with fields on one side and dotted with large houses on the other. We walked on this road for about half an hour before asking some locals if we were on the right road. They found it hilarious that we weren't. They pointed in the direction we had come still laughing. Not quite getting the joke but thanking them all the same we retraced our steps.

At the main road we decided to do a left and after 10mins were at the sanctuary.

We were just in time for the orangs' afternoon feeding session but as we attempted to purchase our tickets the kindly chap dealing with us said there were no orangs today and that we would be wasting our money!

Decided to come back for the morning session instead. Walked back to our lodgings where we had a few drinks. We were both knackered and ended up in bed by about 9.30pm, looking forward to seeing orangs t'row.

Day 232 (Sat 24 Feb) - Kinabatangan River (Sabah, Borneo)

Up early at 5.45am. Dressed and were soon in a small boat wearing life jackets ( [1], [2] ).

Didn't see a great deal this morning as we traveled up and down the river. Some probosic and langur monkeys and a few birds in the distance was all.

Got back and had breakfast. Said goodbye to the other people who were leaving that day and went for a walk with Loise for the morning.

Walked along a path that was hemmed in on by tall grasses. Saw wild chillis and ginger growing. The path was littered with elephant poo and their tracks. A week before we arrived a herd of wild elephants had moved through this area. Would have been a sight to see!

As we walked Loise warned us of the annoying leeches. Soon after he'd done this he pulled up his shirt and a thin leech attached to his skin started waving around, it moved like an elephants truck. He flicked it off. We were determined to pick up any of these blighters.

We could hear a great number of birds but rarely saw them for any length of time. We did manage to spot a small scarlet capped bird though. Also saw a huge (about 6 inches across) black and yellow butterfly and a frog. As we walked Sarb would periodically begin scratching at his (large) midriff and was surprised to see a leech flailing around. Got rid of it. He had to repeat this performance a further two times before we had a break. Jo luckily picked up none.

We stopped at a lake and sat on a jetty where we relaxed chatting to Loise and watching the birds. Saw oriental darters sunning themselves and sometimes fishing, egrets, kingfishers and a small unidentified bird that had a nest, no bigger than an egg cup, next to the jetty.

After a while Loise asked us if we'd like to see something. He produced a small bag that contained some bread and breaking off a large piece held it in the water. Nothing happened but then the surface of the water seemed to boil and hundreds of small fish simply attacked the bread. Within seconds there was nothing left.

He handed over the remainder of the bag to us and we had great fun feeding the starving fish ( [1], [2] ). Occasionally a larger fish (about a foot in length) would detect the presence of the feeding frenzy and not wanting to miss out would join in. Seeing that these fish were not going for the bread and was larger large you had to watch out for your fingers.

Walked back, crossing a swampy area via a log, and saw a polka dotted birdwing butterfly. Huge!

Just as we got to the edge of the camp the rain, that had been threatening all day, suddenly began to hammer down.

Sarb sat in the common area, where we took our meals, talking to Jan the manager. Turns out that Stocking, the large black and white cat that hung around the camp, was the son of the larger tabby that prowled around and is only 14 months old. He's massive!

Rained all afternoon ( [1], [2] ). During a lull in the rain a party of three Poles turned up.

Rain had cleared up as we prepared for our boat trip in the afternoon. Even the butterflies were out and about. We spotted a croc and a probosic monkey and passed a tree where Loise stopped the boat and asked us to look up. Looking very, very carefully we finally saw a green Wagners pit viper curled up on a thin branch.
A langur monkey nearby seemed just as curious in us as we were of him.

Got back and had a nice dinner with our Polish buddies and retired to bed with a brandy.

Both slept very well.

Day 231 (Fri 23 Feb) - Kota Kinabalu / Kinabatangan River

Up at 5.30am. Completed our packing quietly and then walked to the bus station. We asked some waiting bus drivers where we could catch a bus to the long distance bus station. They waved us onto a waiting bus. We thought that this was too easy and were proved right. The bus took off, went a few blocks and then we were ushered out to another bus stop.

We waited for quite some time becoming a trifle anxious. If we missed our 7am bus another would not leave until late that afternoon. A bus soon arrived and we clambered aboard.

As the bus stopped at the bus station it was mobbed by screaming touts. Even worse than India. Fought them off and found the bus, the Tung Express, that we had been told to get and bought our tickets. We soon boarded the bus and Sarb was soon asleep as the bus made its way South.

We got off at a small town called Medan Selera where we were met by a guide called Jibrieal. We were a little early so while we waited we chatted and had some semolina and sweetcorn soup and a coke. From here we drove in Jibrieal's small van for about 1 and a half hours on an unsealed road to the river. It was a pretty bumpy and slow road! Just before we reached our drop off point J pointed out a slender black shape making its way across the road. "Cobra!" he exclaimed.

From our drop off point we boarded a small boat that took us to a point further upstream and on the opposite side of the riverbank. Our raised cabin is quite comfy. Two single beds and a shower and toilet out back. Unpacked our gear and explored the riverbank in front of us.

Met a few other travelers that had been staying there. A pair of German guys with a Thai woman traveling as a group, a young Brit couple and a lone Brit gap year student.

Later that afternoon we boarded two small boats. Sarb got in with the Germans/Thai group and Jo traveled with the Brits ( [1], [2] ). As we traveled up the river we spotted huge hornbills, kingfishers, langur, proboscis monkeys and an eagle. Peeling off the main waterway Jo's boat became stuck and her guide had to execute a 15 point turn to get them out it.

We stayed out for quite a while and were rewarded with a great sunset as we headed back to camp.

Once we were back we had a good dinner all together and a few beers. Jo and I then went for a night walk with one of the rangers, called Loise. As we walked Loise pointed out a sleeping bulbul bird, a lizard, a sleeping fruit bat and some highly colourful beetles. He then spent a little time prodding around under a tree before extracting a scorpion some 6 inches long. Having extracted it he placed it on his forearm. The scorpion was a bit lively and seemed quite content wandering up and down his arm. He asked if we wanted to 'hold it'. We politely declined. He nodded knowingly and told us that the other night a girl had agreed to hold a similar scorpion. No sooner had he placed it on her arm she burst into tears and practically fainted from shock. Muppet!

Loise was careful as we walked to point out that we should step over the occasional busy line of ants that bisected our path. Although we were wearing wellies he said that we should be wary as they were fire ants and particularly aggressive.

We walked on into the forest and just as we neared our camp we heard the sound of plants rustling and looked round to see a small furry animal with a broad white stripe making off at speed. Turned out he was a Malay badger, a member of the skunk family.

Made it back to camp where we had a couple of stiff gin and tonics before turning in.

Day 230 (Thu 22 Feb) - Kota Kinabalu (Sabah, Borneo)

Up at 8am to finalise with Alex our onward itinerary.

After brekky decided to catch up on the blog. Waste of time as the machines were virus ridden and annoyingly you had to get time on a machine by depositing coins in a nearby slot. Soon gave up and decided to go shopping as we needed some more gear.

Went to several small shopping malls looking for trousers for Sarb and some black tops for Jo. No luck though.

Felt hungry about 1ish so stopped off at a McD's. For some reason we are both craving junk food!

Went for an unsuccessful shop and then headed to the waterfront to see the sunset ( [1], [2] ). Had a few drinks overlooking the harbour and the neighbouring small islands ( [1], [2] ).

On the way back from the waterfront we stopped off at a large supermarket where we stocked up some provisions including small bottles of brandy and gin. We were meant to meet Alex this evening so that we could pay him for our excursions but he wasn't to be found. Waited in a bar nearby and finally at about 10.30pm he pitched up.

Paid up and went off to bed to pack our gear as we had to leave early for Kinabatangan the next morning.

Day 229 (Wed 21 Feb) - Kuala Lumpur / Kota Kinabalu (Sabah, Borneo)

We were up and packed by 6am and set off to the LRT to take us to Sentral station.

From there we picked up a shuttle bus that took us to the LCCT (Low Cost Carrier Terminal). Since we were last there they had obviously finished refurbishing the airport as it now had open restaurants and the usual assortment of airport technology, such as screens and pa systems, lacking from our previous visit.

Checked our bags in and then went for McD's. The flight left on time at 10.30am.

Really boring flight as we spent most of it over the ocean. However as we approached KK we passed over small islands surrounded by corals. Very beautiful.

At KK we waited around for a while before jumping on a bus that would take us into KK central. Walked round in the heat looking for lodgings. Most were very expensive and none to clean. Luckily Jo had picked up a flier at the airport that advertised a Travelers Light guesthouse. Pitched up and were soon checked into a large room, complete with a double bed and two bunks. Really clean and the staff were friendly.

Unfortunately, they did not switch on the air con until 6pm and as it was unbearably hot in the room we went for a walk round town. Sat in a small square having a drink and planning our next few days.

Returned to the hostel where we met Alex the owner. Really nice guy who helped us plan our onward excursions. When we mentioned that we fancied an Indian tonight he recommended to us his fave place, Jothy Curry, and offered to drive us there as he was going out with his wife to a place nearby.

We had an excellent and cheap curry served on banana leaves. Very tasty.

Walked back to the hostel via the food stalls and night markets.

Although comfy our hostel has paper thin walls and wooden floors. The acoustic result being that you might as well remove the walls between the rooms and just have a dorm. Particularly trying as the family in the room above us seemed to have children that delighted in jumping out of bed, landing on the floor with a thud that make our bed jump, at various times during the night.

Quite difficult to have a good nights sleep.

Day 228 (Tues 20 Feb) - Kuala Lumpur

Up early to pack our bags.

Traipsed to the floating restaurant through which our return trip was booked and had brekky.

At 9am on the dot a boat pulled in and we, and a number of other tourists, bundled on. Soon we were speeding off down the river. Really beautiful to see the mist floating up from the dense forest as we raced past ( [1], [2] ). The journey only took 2 and a half hours.

Got to Tembeling jetty and boarded a bus that would take us back to Jerantut. Arrived at 12pm and as we had an hour to kill before we boarded a bus to Kuala Lumpur had a spot of lunch.

The journey to Kuala Lumpur was uneventful and we were soon standing in the pouring rain in KL's Chinatown. Managed to find a small cleanish room at the Backpackers Travellers Lodge where the staff were really helpful. Gave us loads of good advice regarding getting to the airport t'row.

We took the LRT monorail to the KLCC and whilst Jo went shopping Sarb went off to burn some CDs.

At 8pm we met up again at Finnigans Irish bar were we had loads of beers and whacking great big pies. On the way to Finnigans Sarb spotted a moped parked on the side of the road with music blaring from it. Closer inspection revealed that what he initially thought was furry seat covers were in fact cats. The moped was draped in cats; calmly sitting there listening to the tunes. Sarb supposed that the man standing nearby was the owner of the moped and cats, as he surmised that even a super intelligent cat was unlikely to don a crash helmet and roar off into the night with his buddies perched alongside. Still you never know.

Walked back to the hotel where Sarb had a restless nights sleep for some reason.

Day 227 (Mon 19 Feb) - Taman Negara

Got up at a lazy 10ish.

After yesterdays exertions decided to have an easy one. Lazed round the hotel grounds for most of the day, only managed to venture to the posh resorts' restaurant again for lunch.

In the evening we went for a jungle walk ( [1], [2] ). Very creepy walking round the forest with our guide and a gaggle of other tourists. Saw a scorpion, large Huntsman's spiders and a cicada emerging from his cocoon (?), and a stick insect. Really did look like the baby Alien. We made it to one of the salt lick hides where we luckily saw some small dear.

Walked back to our hotel and had a drink before retiring for bed.

Day 226 (Sun 18 Feb) - Taman Negara

Up early for a dodgy breakfast at the hotel. Decided to go for a walk through the forest heading towards Burkit hill that afforded some fine views of the surrounding landscape.
We walked down to the jetty and crossed the river to the entrance to the forest.

The path was fairly level to start with but soon became steep. We had only been walking about 30minutes and we were both soaked in sweat. It seems that after the rains yesterday the humidity level was even higher than yesterday.

Quite tricky walking in places as tree roots had made uneven and slippery steps up the steepest parts of the path. Luckily in places ropes had been strung so that you could at least kind of haul yourself up.

We got to the first viewpoint and had a rest. We could see out over the river to the thick carpet of forest on the other side. After 15mins or so we pushed on to the main viewpoint nearby. From this viewpoint we had a great view of the undulating landscape thickly carpeted with trees. In the distance we could see mountains rising clad in green from top to bottom.

Quite busy with people at the top as a college group of about 30 had arrived just ahead of us. Whilst waiting Sarb got chatting to a couple of young Malay tourists about footy and Tony Blair.

Soon we were left alone at the top and were able to admire the amazing views without a horde of people jostling and shouting ( [1], [2] ). Beautiful!

The weather was beginning to promise rain and as the paths were steep Sarb suggested that we motor on down sooner rather than later. From the summit we walked down to a fork in the path. One path led us to our first viewpoint but the other went via a designated swimming area. Decided to take this path.

This path started off easy enough but soon we were walking through such dense forest you couldn't see a patch of sky above. In some places the path was so steep you had to climb up and down it!

We stopped at a small stream to have a breather. It was here that we discovered that we were running low on water and considering that sweat was pouring off us in torrents this was a trifling concerning.

Started to become a little concerned as we knew we were only 2km away from the jetty when we set off but having walked for about an hour and a half we seemed to be no nearer. Finally after climbing a particularly steep slope and walking down a well trodden path we came to the banks of the river and the resort area.

We were both absolutely shattered so decided to have a drink at the posh resorts' restaurant. Decided we were peckish as well so forgot the budget and had a couple of chilli hot dogs.

Relaxed for a while before getting a boat back to our side of the river. Jo phoned her mum in the evening whilst Sarb stood nearby craning his neck trying to identify constellations in the star studded sky.

Really good day although we were both thoroughly exhausted. Worked out that we'd been walking for about 6/7hours.

Day 225 (Sat 17 Feb) - Taman Negara

Up at 8m to pack our bags and move to Woodlands.

Our room would not be ready until 1pm so we dumped our bags at reception and had a nice breakfast on one of the floating river restaurants. Paid our 1 Ringitt each so that we could cross the river and were soon climbing up the steep steps to the posh resort that is sited at the entrance to the forest.

Decided to go to the canopy walkway. This is apparently the longest in the world, some 500metres suspended 30metres above ground.

From the resort we took a carefully marked path that led us into the interior. Soon we were totally surrounded by the forest with only the buzz of insects and the occasional trill from a bird. Quite peaceful. Within 15 mins we were absolutely soaked in sweat ( [1], [2] ). The heat and humidity was very uncomfortable.

As we walked on we heard a rustle and crash from the trees above us. Looking carefully we could see a troop of Langur monkeys playing high amongst the branches above.
We got to the entrance to the walkway and had a little breather, chatting to a few Malay tourists.

Soon the other tourists wandered off and we were left sitting on a wooden bench. Suddenly we heard a rustling sound and spotted a lizard about 8 inches high burst out from the undergrowth towards us. It had obviously been eyeing up lunch. It swooped on an unsuspecting beetle and scuttled off again and sat under a tree. It really looked like a mini T-rex, as it ran on its hind legs only and had two sorts of horns on its head.

Carried on up to the entrance to the walkway. You had to walk about 10 metres apart and only 4 people were allowed on any one section of the walkway. It's pretty scary as the wooden plank you walk on is very narrow and sways alarmingly. You end up clutching the side ropes so tight your knuckles turn white ( [1], [2] )!

Didn't see any animals (wrong time of day) but it certainly gave you an idea as to what life in the treetops might be like. Got some good photos from some of the landings that looked out over the river.

After the walkway we walked back to the jetty. Close to where the forest gave way to the grounds of the resort Jo spotted a woodpecker and some pheasants. Amazing to see the woodpecker doing his stuff!

Got back to Woodlands quite exhausted at about 3. Unpacked our bags and relaxed for a while. The clothes we were wearing on the walk were thoroughly soaked! We had planned to go on a night jungle walk tonight but it started to absolutely hammer down with rain.

Had a good supper at the hotel and turned in for the night.

Day 224 (Fri 16 Feb) - Jerantut / Taman Negara (Kuala Tahan)

Up at a leisurely hour and picked up our tickets. Our bus leaves at 1pm so we had plenty of time to kill.

Done a little blogging then waited to board our bus at 1pm. The bus took us to a boat jetty some 45minutes away. The jetty was sited alongside the banks of a mighty brown river and from where we were dropped off was some 30 odd metres below us.

We walked down with all our bags to the jetty and boarded a thin uncomfortable boat for the 3 hour journey that would take us to Kuala Tahan. As we traveled we could see the jungle on either side of the banks of the river. Beautiful.

Arrived at Kuala Tahan and got off at a cafe where we were given a bit of spiel about the jungle and how we could book tours and walks. We sat impatiently through this as we had to find some lodgings. Eventually the guy piped down and we set off, struggling up the steep banks into the small town itself.

Found a cheap room but weren't too happy with it. Basically it was a shack, no mozzie nets, and the roof didn't quite meet the walls! Decided to give it a go though.

Decided to walk round the town for a bit and ended up having an indian dinner at one of the floating cafes. Not the best dinner we've had by a long, long way!

We carried on walking round and soon found a flash looking hotel complex, Woodlands, where they served beer and shandies! Whilst Sarb sipped a cold one Jo went off and asked how much rooms were per night. Worked out that it was double what we were paying at our shack so decided to book ourselves in for the next 3 nights.

Wandered back to our lodgings and, after setting up two electric mozzie repellants and spraying the room with mozzie killer, slept quite well ie. no bites.

Day 223 (Thu 15 Feb) - Kota Bharu / Jerantut

Up at 4.45am after a restless nights sleep. Packed our gear and got our taxi bang on time.

Travelled through the dark but bustling town and soon arrived at Wakaf Bharu. It was a bit confusing trying to work out what train we needed especially as the booking office was closed. It soon opened at 6am and after a bit of discussion we booked two tickets to Jerantut.

Train arrived on time and we sat in our allocated seat numbers. The few other passengers did likewise. Seemed a trifle daft as the carriage was empty but the handful of passengers were all crammed up at one end sitting next to one another.

Very dark as we set off so we both had a snooze. For some inexplicable reason the train would spend about half an hour waiting each time it stopped at a station. Soon the sky began to lighten and we could get a good look at our surroundings.

The train traveled through dense forest; at times it felt like we were going through a tunnel that had been made up of trees and leaves! Occasionaly we would cross an iron bridge over a muddy brown river and small settlements sited right alongside the tracks would flash past the windows.

When the dense foliage occasionaly gave way you could see huge limestone rocks appear out of the jungle. Their sides were bare and sheer whilst the crowns had a dense carpet of trees.

Got to Jerantut just after lunchtime. By chance we met a tout who offered to take us to the hotel that we had planned to go to. No doubt we were charged a little extra at the hotel for our free pick up but we had no map and it was too hot to go traipsing round town trying to find it.

Checked in to our fairly comfortable and clean room. Wandered round town for a bit and had a quick KFC to keep ourselves going.

At 8.30pm we went to a sister hotel of ours where we booked up bus and boat tickets for our journey into Taman Negara.

Had a particularly insipid meal at a small cafe.

Jerantut can only be described as a small nothing of a town!

Day 222 (Wed 14 Feb) - Songai Kolok / Rantau Panjang / Kota Bharu

Pulled into Sungai Kolok about 11.30ish am.

Really hot as we walked to the border about 1km away. We had overstayed our Thai visa by about 2 days so were expecting to be fined at the Thai immigration. By our calculations we reckoned it would come to about 2000 Baht. However the bloke at our counter seemed totally indifferent and just stamped our passports with a smile and sent us on our way.

Passed through the Malaysian immigration with very little fuss and so we were in Rantau Panang.

Had a coke at a small cafe and mulled over the merits of waiting for a bus or getting a taxi to Kota Bharu. In the end we decided that since we did not have to pay the fine that we could afford the taxi!

Took about an hour to get to Kota Bharu. We managed to get a really drab and dreary looking room just by the central market area for 49 Ringgits.

Whilst Jo had a rest Sarb went wandering. During which he managed to get his hair cut, changed our remaining Thai money into Ringitts and got some extra money for our jolly to Taman Negara.

Sarb returned after a couple of hours and Jo now wide awake we went shopping for provisions. Bought some journals, blank CD's, pens and toiletries.

Couldn't be bothered with walking round trying to find a place to eat so just ended up in the Pizza Hut next door to the hotel. Well it is Valentine's day after all!

We both phoned our respective families back at home.

Before hitting the sack we booked a taxi to pick us up at 5.15am t'row morning that would take us to the nearest train station located in Wakaf Bharu, a small town about half an hour from K.B

Day 221 (Tue 13 Feb) - Khao Sam Roi Yot / Hua Hin

After brekky we packed our bags and saying goodbye to the friendly hotel staff set off. Steve and Fiona were off to Bangkok whilst we were to be dropped off at Hua Hin train station.

After about an hour and a half we arrived at Hua Hin. Said goodbye to Steve and Fiona and then dumped our main rucksacks at the train station. Our train did not leave until 7pm, so we had quite a bit of time to kill.

Walked into Hua Hin town and blogged for a while.

Went for a drink at one of the beach front cafes. Lovely view out to sea although you can hardly see any of the fine beach. People have built very unsafe looking structures practically out to the water line. Crying shame!

We had a pie and chips dinner at our little chippy and done a little more blogging.

After we'd had enough of blogging we had a quick drink in a bar en route to the train station. Talk about seedy! As we sat there we watched with amusement the entire young mini-skirted female staff applying all manner of make-up. At intervals an older western male tourist would wander in, to great cries of delight from the girls. Weird!

Walked back to the station and waited for our train. The train arrived on time and soon after boarding we were zonked out.

Day 220 (Mon 12 Feb) - Khao Sam Roi Yot

Lazy day today. Decided to have a beach day!

After breakfast we sat on the deserted beach watching the world go by ( [1], [2], [3] ). Very, very warm as we sat in the shade.

For lunch we went to the Dolphin Bay resort.

After lunch we started to pack our gear and also to make a pile of stuff that we wanted Steve and Fiona to take back to London for us.

At about 5pm when the heat of the day had eased we decided to take some kayaks and go for a paddle. We paddled out in our two kayaks in glorious sunshine towards an island about 1km from our beach.

Hard work as we paddled across open water to the island. Having arrived, we discovered that the water was quite silty and unsuitable for snorkeling. As we wandered about we noticed a small troop of monkeys some distance off.

As we watched them they came closer and closer until at one point one of them decided to jump into a kayak. A particular monkey took keen interest in the small plastic bag that Fiona was carrying. Only feet away from Fiona he made a lunge and grabbed the bag and raced up the beach towards the rocks.

Once there he calmy ripped open the bag ready to devour its contents. Unfortunately for the monkey it only contained a none too nutritious snorkel mask! After examining said object he dropped it on the rocks. Whilst Steve retrieved the mask Sarb stood guard armed with a few small stones to fling at the monkey lest he return whilst the recovery was in progress.

We decided we'd had enough of the island at this point so got back into our kayaks and headed back to our beach. It was getting rather late as well by this time and we were keen to get back before dark. As we paddled away we noticed a rather large Thai naval vessel some several hundred yards off.

It ominously seemed to keep us in its sights as we paddled off. We suppose that they were a trifle concerned that a bunch of tourists were paddling round so close to dark; or maybe they were just bored.

In any event we soon made it back to base and had another great dinner at the Dolphin Bay.

We returned to the hotel and had a few drinks in the lovely garden.

Day 219 (Sun 11 Feb) - Khao Sam Roi Yot

Up early for a boat ride. Picked up our happy ranger again and we all trooped off to a protected marsh area.

We thought that the boat would be similar to the one we had the day before. It in fact turned out to be a punt. Since said craft would not be able to hold all of us our driver, guide and other guide they elected to stay on dry land.

The punt was pulled up against the bank and was surrounded by tall reeds. It seemed quite impossible that the woman piloting the punt would be able to break through what seemed to be an impenetrable mass of reeds. Anyway all four of us gingerly got into the punt. Sarb got in last, smugly thinking that since he was last on board the poor person at the front of the boat ie. Steve would be used as the battering ram to break through the reeds. The smile was soon wiped from his mug as the woman set off and pointed the boat round so that Sarb was at the front! Coupled with the fact that Sarb is terrified of spiders and there seemed to be one or two cobwebs spanning the reeds he spent most of the journey hyperventilating. Luckily however there weren't too many spiders or webs.

It was quite eerie as we punted through the reeds, floating across carpets of lillies ( [1], [2] ). Now and again we would hear the flutter of wings and a bird would burst out from the dense reeds.

The mountains lining one side of the marsh were quite incredible, especially when the sun began to rise and sent shafts of light through the jagged peaks ( [1], [2] ).

After about an hour or so we returned to the bank and hopped off. We then went for a walk on the raised platforms erected in the marshes. Spotted loads of birds and the water was full of fish.

Spent quite a while walking round the platforms ( [1], [2], [3] ). A quite serene place!

We had lunch at the HQ of the park and then headed back to the hotel, stopping to drop off our guide and taking a few photos of some adorable monkeys.

Chilled out for a while and then went for an excellent dinner at the Dolphin Bay hotel, a couple of hundreds yards up the road.

Day 218 (Sat 10 Feb) - Khao Sam Roi Yot

Up early to have breakfast.

We were soon all comfortably esconced in the car that Steve and Fiona had hired. Together with the driver and the guide (that came with the vehicle ;) ) we made a merry little party.

Today's jolly was to walk around the National Park. We travelled to the HQ and picked up a park guide. This short sturdy looking chap clad in khaki coloured clothing and a cowboy hat was a right barrel of laughs. He was constantly smiling and cracking jokes and generally had such a sort of friendly, chummy attitude it was hard not to warm to him. The fact that he spoke not a word of English was moot.

With our newly acquired guide we then set off as a pack into the National Park. The driver, who spoke not a word of English, was charged with carrying the telescopic scope on a large tripod.

The weather was extremely hot so we were thankful to walk through the shade of the forest. We saw a few birds and some monkeys through the trees.

From the forested area we walked on road to a small stream where kingfishers were normally found. No kingfishers unfortunately. We did pass a mobile shrimp processing plant though.

Really, really hot as we walked on the road lined with mangroves. The surroundings were dotted with large hills but thankfully our road stayed flat as it threaded its way round them.

Got back to the HQ and saw some large mudskippers lying by the stream that runs alongside the building. We then walked on a raised walkway. Hard to believe that during the wet season water would be a couple of feet deep; it felt as though we were walking through a desert, complete with growing cacti.

Beautiful landscape however. We crossed small streams and walked amongst huge granite boulders.

Had lunch and then went back to our hotel for a rest, leaving our newly acquired guide at HQ.

At about 4ish we set off again and went for a boat ride. We headed towards the jetty that was located on a grassy plain on the edge of which were two beautiful Wats surrounded by large menacing granite hills. We met up with our guide from this morning and we all boarded the boat. Together with the captain of the boat that made eight people, four of whom were tourists!

The boat captain was clearly on something illegal as he continually talked and laughed at the top of his voice. His best jokes were lost on us, as they were in Thai, but judging by the reaction of our assorted guides and driver this man clearly had missed his calling as a standup.

Nevertheless the journey was breathtaking. On one side of the river huge rock cliffs towered above us and on the other we could see across to mountains or hills in the distance. As we floated downriver we spotted all manner of birds; kingfishers, egrets and herons, to name the only ones we remember ( [1], [2], [3] ).

We motored up and down the river, eventually reaching the mouth of the river, passing a small colourful fishing village.

Headed back to the jetty and got back in the car and headed to a beach where we watched a glorious sunset ( [1], [2] ). We finally headed back to the hotel

Unfortunately, the hotel is hosting some kind of Thai bankers corporate function. A stage had been built on the beach on which senior people were trying to gee up the troops assembled before them. As at all corporate functions the world over the troops wore glazed expressions whilst all the while probably wondering when the eejits would shut up and the free booze would begin to flow.

We went for dinner up the road at a small restaurant.

By the time we got back someone had wheeled out the karaoke machine. We could still hear some really mangled singing till about 1ish until someone thankfully pulled the pin.

Day 217 (Fri 9 Feb) - Hua Hin / Pranburi / Khao Sam Roi Yot

Pulled into the pretty Hua Hin station about 8.30 in the morning.

Dumped our large rucksacks in the station lockers and headed off into town.

The town is small and as we neared the beachfront it is totally dominated by large, featureless hotels. As we walked round we were surprised to see that most of the other foot traffic seemed to consist of wealthy and fat Westerners!

Found a small cafe, in the shadows of a particularly ugly posh hotel, where we had a great sausage sandwich and a cup of tea. They even do pies so will be heading back here on our return journey.

Bought some books then walked back to the station. We were going to catch a train to Pranburi but decided to get the bus instead. We walked the half km from the train to the bus station in searing heat.

Waited for about 45mins and then boarded a bus. The driver was a complete nutter so were very thankful when we got off at a small bus stop in Pranburi.

After an hour of waiting with no sign of a bus Sarb asked a couple of locals waiting patiently if this was the bus stop that would take us to Khao Sam Roi Yot. A little old lady explained that we should really get a taxi and these were to be had up the road.

We thanked her and set off puzzled slightly as the little old woman started following us. As we plodded up the road our newly acquired OAP kept pace and at one point when we were a little unsure as to which road to take at a junction she signalled that we ought to follow her.

We duly did and soon found a taxi. There followed a brief exchange, one way it has to be said, between our saviour and the taxi driver. Little and elderly she may have been, and she may have been speaking Thai at a high speed, but there was little doubt that she was telling the taxi driver where we wanted to go, how much we were going to pay and no mucking her or us about. At one point the taxi driver tried to interject, but was silenced with a loaded finger.

The lady had negotiated us a price of 300 baht for a 20km odd journey. We're sure that without her we would have been stiffed at least twice that amount. We wai'd the kindly old lady any number of times, threw our bags and ourselves into the back and set off.

After a little confusion concerning our route we finally got to our hotel about 1ish. Very nice place. Comfortable and clean room set around a lovely garden and a raised eating area that overlooks the sea.

Had a bite to eat at about 5pm and waited for Steve and Fiona to turn up. They duly arrived at about 6ish.

We had dinner at the restaurant and chatted about the adventures we'd been having since leaving Bangkok.

Day 216 (Thu 8 Feb) - Krabbi / Surat Thani

Up at 10 and packed our gear.

Went for a walk round town to buy a few bits and pieces including some camera filters and an underwater camera.

Back to the room to pick up our bags and headed off to a nearby cafe for a big breakfast. Headed over to the Jolly Jumper to wait for our bus that would take us to Surat Thani.

We had loads of time so spent it doing some work on the blog.

At 3.40pm bus turned up that took us to a bus depot about half an hour away. This bus depot was crawling with backpackers. We waited for about half an hour and then boarded a large comfy bus that would take us to Surat Thani.

Sometime later the bus stopped at a cafe and all the passengers were told to get off. No idea where we were but assumed we were in S.T.! Whilst we waited we could not help notice the exorbitant prices of food and drinks at the cafe; you even had to pay 5 baht just to take a pee. Clearly in cahoots with the bus company!

After an hour a woman screeched that those passengers heading to S.T. should follow her. We boarded another bus and about 40 mins later were dropped off at the train station that is some 15km West of S.T.

At the station we met an English couple Matt and Lucy who were two weeks into their travels. They were heading off round SE Asia with a view to working and possibly staying in NZ.

(They told a hilarious story of an ex colleague who had recently lost his job. The story is somewhat too vulgar for this publication but Sarb will gladly recount it to interested parties on his return. Suffice to say it involves a gay waiter, a straight cook, a cameraphone, an irate customer and Manchester's finest).

Our train should have arrived at 11.30pm but ended up arriving at 1am. Luckily the stations shops remained open so were able to buy crisps and beer.

When the train finally arrived we boarded and immediately went to sleep!

Day 215 (Wed 7 Feb) - Koh Lanta / Krabbi

Up about 10ish. Had breakfast and packed our gear.

Lazed around the room until 12 then headed up to the restaurant. Quite sorry to leave our little bungalow!

Waited for the bus with the Thai barman who was now kitted out in army gear ready to do his last stint of national service. Whilst we waited we all played around with his lovely 6 and a half month baby daughter.

At 1pm our bus arrived and we set off. The barman was to go report to a barracks near to Krabi. As we traveled to the ferry that would take us away from Koh Lanta we stopped off at various points to pick up other travelers. Bus was fairly crowded by the time we got to the ferry.

Frustrating journey as we had to wait for long periods in the hot bus waiting for the ferries to turn up.

We finally arrived in Krabi and were dropped off at the pier. We booked ourselves into the Grand Tower Hotel again.

Lazed round for abit then picked up our train and bus tickets from the Jolly Jumper. Went for a walk around the town and then had dinner at the little Italian place we ate at before.

Day 214 (Tues 6 Feb) - Koh Lanta

Up early for a light breakfast.

At 8.30am our boat arrived and moored up just beyond the rocks. We waded out and had to sit at the back of the boat adjacent to the three powerful looking engines as there were a load of people on board.

We powered off and traveled for about an hour; Jo and I receiving a thorough soaking as we went!

We stopped just offshore from a small island where we donned snorkels and fins. The water looked absolutely fantastic; turquoise blue! Jo decided to wear a life jacket as this was her first time snorkeling. Sarb debated whether to wear one or not but decided against.

Jo got in first and was soon seen bobbing up and down some 20/30 yards from the boat. When Sarb got in he managed to inhale a large quantity of the ocean that left him spluttering and clutching the side of the boat! Once he'd got himself together he soon met up with Jo and we had an excellent time of it. Unknown to Sarb, Jo was having her own issues concerning the mouthpiece of the snorkel. Once she'd figured out how to clamp it in her mouth, and divested herself of a couple of unwanted litres of sea water, she was all set.

The corals and fish were amazing. Huge cauliflower shapes of coral were below us; some so high they were no more than 2 feet others were some 20 or 30 feet deep. Saw all kinds of highly coloured fish!

After about 40mins we got back on the boat and headed off to a larger island where we had lunch on the beach. Got chatting to an English couple that had recently married.

Post lunch we sat on the beach, occasionally having a swim or a snorkel. As we sat there a huge clipper came towards the island and moored up. Looked quite majestic!

After lunch we were back on the boat to another small island for two more snorkeling sessions. One of our sessions was very close to the rocky shallows where we saw schools of thousands of tiny fish. Swimming through them was quite an experience.

Both had a brilliant day as we headed back to Koh Lanta.

Whilst Jo went to tend her sunburn Sarb went for a beer. Turns out that as Jo was wearing a life jacket her butt was up very near the surface of the water and was hence duly frazzled. Sarb met up with an American guy, who now lived and worked in China, and his mum who had come over from Florida for a holiday that had also been on the boat. Whilst we chatted Jo joined us and we were all soon comfortably settled on the rugs laid out on the beach.

Jo and I had dinner at the restaurant and booked our bus to go back to Krabi for 1pm t'row. Just before lights out Jo decided to show Sarb the colour of her butt. Has to be said that there are few simians out there that have a redder rear!

Day 213 (Mon 5 Feb) - Koh Lanta

Headed off to breakfast. Sarb felt fine after his session yesterday and Jo was feeling better too! Quite peaceful watching the ocean as we munched our toast.

Lazed around for a while and seeing as we needed some cash Sarb decided to walk to the 7-11 store that had an ATM about 5km distant, leaving Jo to relax.

A very pleasant walk, although a little hot. Very little traffic as Sarb walked on the tarmac road lined with lush green plants and trees.

Flush with cash Sarb walked back to our bungalow. Very hot now!

Met up with Jo at the bungalow and to cool down Sarb went for a beer.

Later on Jo came out and we lounged on the mats laid out on the sand watching the sun set ( [1], [2], [3] ). Jo also decided to take an artistic shot of the night sky that included her feet!

Booked to go snorkelling t'row for the whole day! Had an excellent dinner at the Coral Beach restaurant and went to bed early so that we could be fighting fit for t'row.

Day 212 (Sun 4 Feb) - Koh Lanta

Phoned the Coral Beach bungalows and they have a bungalow! Arranged for them to pick us up at 11.30am.

Packed our gear and had breakfast. Paid up and were picked up by the Coral Beach people. Soon we were unpacking our gear in our simple bungalow. No air con, but a nice big fan!

Jo feeling a little tired so whilst she slept Sarb blissfully sat on the beach and started planning the Malaysia and New Zealand parts of the trip and writing his journal whilst listening to the IPOD.

Sarb returned to the room to find that Jo still not feeling too good. However she was a little peckish so Sarb was sent to rustle up a cheese sandwich! He soon returned and Jo managed to nibble at her sandwich.

Sarb, charitably, decided that she need a bit of peace and quiet so went off to the beachfront for a drink.

In the early evening Sarb returned to find that Jo was still not up to much except wanting a sleep.

Sarb went off to a bar with a book and was soon playing Connect4 with the barman, Tom a Thai local. Very soon a German retired lorry driver, Anders a young Swede backpacker and a retired British Paratrooper joined the party and many beers were drunk!

Sarb returned to the room sometime later well and truly tiddled.

Day 211 (Sat 3 Feb) - Koh Lanta

Another day working hard doing nothing on the beach!

A small ginger cat has decided that she likes our verandah and lay there for the whole day basking. She has lovely blue eyes!

Speaking of cats, whilst we were sitting having a little afternoon drinky Buster the cat got his head kicked in by another cat. After a few minutes fighting they were last seen heading South down the beach, at a fair turn of speed, with Buster leading the charge yowling.

Walked up the beach for a drink later on in the evening.

Day 210 (Fri 2 Feb) - Koh Lanta

After breakfast we went for a walk on the road behind the beach, going further South.

Found a beautiful little beach and bungalows called Coral Beach. Enquired as to how much a bungalow would be and seeing at they are 200 Baht cheaper a night then ours we said that we would want one. The chappie said that at present they were all occupied but he may have some availability by the weekend.

Wandered back and stopped at a little cafe that was perched at the top of a hill overlooking the sea and a small beach ( [1], [2] ). It was amazing!

Walked back to our hotel in the baking heat. Sarb tried to do a little blogging but unfortunately just as he was getting started the shop had to close. Apparently the police were on the way and as the shop did not have proper licences there was a risk that the owner could be fined!

Lazed round the beach for the remainder of the day and evening! Watched a fire during which Sarb attempted to get an 'arty' shot of the performer!

Day 209 (Thu 1 Feb) - Koh Lanta

Beach day today.

Got up and spent the whole day lazing on the beach ( [1], [2], [3] ).

Had dinner at a small beachside restaurant up from our lodgings. Treated to another fire show!