Day 144 (Tue 28 Nov) - Varanasi

Up at 5.15am this morning. Met Bilhari who took us through the dark streets of Varanasi on his creaking cycle rickshaw. As we neared the old town (near the river banks) the streets became little more than a series of alleys. Be practically impossible to find your way round as a newbie!

We arrived at the Kedar Ghats and arranged a boat, amongst the many other tourists. Our boatman started rowing up the river naming the various ghats and who they belonged to; the majority of the ghats ( [1], [2]) and surrounding buildings are owned by Maharajas.

The sky soon began to lighten and we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset burning off the chill mist hovering over the river ( [1], [2] ).

Passed the immense burning ghat (where bodies are cremated) stocked high with different types of wood. Fascinating to watch the daily rituals enacted on the banks of this river; people washing themselves and their clothes and praying. Really does feel that time has stood still here ( [1], [2], [3], [4] ).

Many of the ghats and temples are in a desperate state of repair. Some of the ghats have little platforms that are supported by nothing more than a stack of bricks. Health and Safety would have a field day!

Got back to the Kedar ghat and met up with Bilhari who took us to a small cafe for breakfast and a chance to thaw out.

We went to the massive University campus to see the new Vishnaketh temple. The campus is criss crossed with wide avenues lined with beautiful trees; a far cry from the roads outside. We sat in the grounds of the temple in a patch of sunshine still warming up and watched the interplay of the monkeys and squirrels.

Bilhari then took us to a nearby monkey temple. It was very busy as some sort of ceremony was going on. After a security check we walked into the small temple grounds past groups of monkeys that were idling around. These guys were obviously very well fed as they would take a single bite from an apple that had been offered to them and discard the remainder.

Bilhari took us to some other temples as well although the highlight was the Mother India temple. From the outside it looks quite modern and unassuming. However when you enter it you see that the entire floor has been constructed from marble and is a relief map of India. The peaks of the Himalayas are about 3 feet tall with the Western Ghats barely registering about a foot tall. Very, very impressive.

Bilhari then took us to a silk factory where we bought one or two items as pressies. Back to the hotel quite exhausted and had a sleep.

Our day was by no means over however as we met Bilhari again at about 5pm for a trip on the river at night. We stopped by the main ghats where we witnessed priests performing a sun ceremony. Incredibly intricate and all timed to haunting music.

Bilhari returned us to our hotel and as a gesture of thanks we gave him 1000 rupees for his travels. A small fortune for which he was very grateful.

Had another excellent dinner at El Parador. The food was good but the atmosphere was slightly strained as we were the only ones in there and the owner some tables away insisted on sharing his views with us regarding the United States. We know that it is somewhat fashionable (and not entirely unwarranted) to kick the US in the knackers now and again but this guy was clearly operating in a different league.

Left him and his ranting and had a good old sleep.

uni temple
s and bilharia
priests fire ceremony