Day 54 (Wed 30 Aug) - Amritsar / Attari Border
Had a well deserved lie in and then went for breakfast at Neelams. Spent most of the morning in an internet cafe. We'd heard on the news that there were severe floods in Rajasthan (where we were hoping to visit in September), so we tried to find some more information, without much luck.
Went to the Golden Temple Museum which contained some quite graphic paintings detailing the Sikhs violent history. We then walked around the Golden temple complex and took some more photos ( [1], [2] ).
We booked a jeep for 4pm to go to the Indian / Pakistan border for the closing ceremony.
Before we left for the border Sarb went inside the Golden Temple itself in the centre of the holy pool. To reach it you have to walk on the Guru's bridge. You are not allowed to take photos inside the actual temple but suffice to say that it is even more ornate than the outside. The reflection from the gold walls and ceilings quite literally stings your eyes. Inside priests sit and read from the Sikhs' holy book.
As Sarb was walking around the Golden Temple Jo was on the outskirts darting around trying to take some pictures!
At 4pm we set off for Attari in a shared jeep with three other tourists. One Brit and a French couple. It is about an hours comfortable drive to the border passing the magnificent Khalsa college on the way.
The border is constructed such that the main road linking Pakistan and India is separated by some ornate iron gates. On each countries side, a guardhouse and grandstands have been built on both sides of the road. By the time we arrived the stands were heaving with people, watched by the relaxed guards.
As we watched two Indian comperes revved up the crowd who responded enthusiastically with pro Indian chants and some frankly scary dancing. Quite a friendly, carnival but slightly hysterical atmosphere. When the noise abated slightly on the Indian side we could hear the Pakistani crowds on the other side chanting away. Basically a football match crowd without the footy!
We then watched as groups of women and men were encouraged to run to the iron gates bearing the Indian flag!
Then a slight hush as bugles were blown and then out of the guardhouse hurtled some soldiers. Marching so quickly that they were almost running they took their positions. What followed was quite an entertaining display of stamping about, bugling, shouting etc. Finally guards from both sides meet in the middle, the gate is slammed shut and the flags lowered. The crowds get onto the pitch dancing and singing. Quite a scene!
On the way out a guard asked Sarb for a photo.
Drove back to Amritsar where Sarb decided he needed a beer. We walked through the Old Town of Amritsar; a maze of small dimly lit alleys, sometimes opening up into small bright and busy bazaars. It was quite dangerous walking through this area as rickshaw and motorcycle drivers would still drive through at some speed on a road some 10 feet wide crowded with people.
Managed to get a beer and we got a rickshaw back.
Went to the Golden Temple Museum which contained some quite graphic paintings detailing the Sikhs violent history. We then walked around the Golden temple complex and took some more photos ( [1], [2] ).
We booked a jeep for 4pm to go to the Indian / Pakistan border for the closing ceremony.
Before we left for the border Sarb went inside the Golden Temple itself in the centre of the holy pool. To reach it you have to walk on the Guru's bridge. You are not allowed to take photos inside the actual temple but suffice to say that it is even more ornate than the outside. The reflection from the gold walls and ceilings quite literally stings your eyes. Inside priests sit and read from the Sikhs' holy book.
As Sarb was walking around the Golden Temple Jo was on the outskirts darting around trying to take some pictures!
At 4pm we set off for Attari in a shared jeep with three other tourists. One Brit and a French couple. It is about an hours comfortable drive to the border passing the magnificent Khalsa college on the way.
The border is constructed such that the main road linking Pakistan and India is separated by some ornate iron gates. On each countries side, a guardhouse and grandstands have been built on both sides of the road. By the time we arrived the stands were heaving with people, watched by the relaxed guards.
As we watched two Indian comperes revved up the crowd who responded enthusiastically with pro Indian chants and some frankly scary dancing. Quite a friendly, carnival but slightly hysterical atmosphere. When the noise abated slightly on the Indian side we could hear the Pakistani crowds on the other side chanting away. Basically a football match crowd without the footy!
We then watched as groups of women and men were encouraged to run to the iron gates bearing the Indian flag!
Then a slight hush as bugles were blown and then out of the guardhouse hurtled some soldiers. Marching so quickly that they were almost running they took their positions. What followed was quite an entertaining display of stamping about, bugling, shouting etc. Finally guards from both sides meet in the middle, the gate is slammed shut and the flags lowered. The crowds get onto the pitch dancing and singing. Quite a scene!
On the way out a guard asked Sarb for a photo.
Drove back to Amritsar where Sarb decided he needed a beer. We walked through the Old Town of Amritsar; a maze of small dimly lit alleys, sometimes opening up into small bright and busy bazaars. It was quite dangerous walking through this area as rickshaw and motorcycle drivers would still drive through at some speed on a road some 10 feet wide crowded with people.
Managed to get a beer and we got a rickshaw back.
posted by Jo and Sarb at
8/30/2006 07:12:00 am
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